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Topic: Meat Goat Feeding for Production  (Read 612 times)
cbdale
Caprine Guru
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Posts: 286


« on: April 08, 2016, 08:27:12 AM »

I remember in a earlier post, that someone had recommended a book on how to figure % of protein, and composition of goat feeds, and I have a book that is great in this quest.
 The book is " Raising Meat Goats for Profit", by Gail Bowman.  It is a very good book showing all the ingredients for goats, and their % of each item needed for goat health.  They show a worksheet in how to calculate the dry matter(DM),TDN (total digestible nutrients), TCP (total crude protein), and % TCP. and how much for dry to lactating, or pregnant doe.
 It shows how much protein is in each food, and how to calculate the mixing of different grain sources in total mixture you are feeding, for total protein. When mixing corn, alfalfa, oats, cottonseed hulls, barley, etc., what is total % of protein in mixture. It is good reading, and will inform you about the nutrition of
grains.
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imalilbirdie
Herdmasters
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Posts: 19149


Texas


« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2016, 05:29:05 AM »

I'll have to look that up.  My Mill Guy taught me what I know about it.  He could be off or slightly mistaking...but our goats did excellent and I didn't question it.  There is a chart that tells you the crude protein, and with most fresh milled feeds, it's the average protein, because there are different qualities of each grain...such as; if the fields are fertilized, limed and weed sprayed, then the crops do better, and produce a larger yield as well as a larger more nutritious grain...whereas a field left to it's own nurturing and over used, does not produce as high a quality grain.  You can tell this in the grains that they use at mills...the grains are smaller and some are very large, with more brilliant color to them.  This is important for the protein and nutrition of the grain itself. 

Premixed feeds, such as down here, we have what's called "Country Acres" and we have "Purina".  Same feed, same protein levels (or so they say), big difference in cost per bag...UNTIL you open that bag and compare that grain product.  You can see that the name brand premixed feed has a whole lot better quality grain in it than the off brand bag of feed has.  Now, does it make the off brand a bad feed, no it doesn't, it just means that the nutritional value of that grain isn't going to be as good as the other brand. 

I believe in looking at the quality of the grain.  I believe that the better the quality of that grain, the more nutrition you'll get it out of it.  We raised Corn, Milo, Soybeans, Wheat, and Rye back home.  3600 acres of it indeed.  Every year we fertilized it, limed it, and every other year the weeds were sprayed out of it.  We got a high yield of those fields and we rotated crops year to year.  Some farmers can't afford to do that any more, so the quality of grain, has gone way down.
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~ Birdie ~
cbdale
Caprine Guru
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Posts: 286


« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2016, 08:58:24 AM »

Yup, that is correct, and many farmers around here do not fertilize their pastures well, and the quality of hay is not as good as my hay, and I still like the 13-13-13 to 19-19-19 .  I don't mind the chicken litter if it is
tilled into the soil for an organic base, and I like better Nitrogen content.  Pam, you are correct, and I always go by appearance in my hay, and the look of the animals.  You can tell by looking at the animals if the feed is not correct. Poor coats, and activity, and health are results of poor nutrition.
  I just came from a grain plant not far from me, and they were selling a Beef Growth meal that was 15% for goats, at $9.50 for a 50lb bag.  I had to buy some generic Roundup, and will have to add a surfactant to go with the Roundup for better results.  The last two years, the generic product took several days to notice any killing of the weeds.  Our 30ft outdoor pool, starts getting weeks growing around the base, and will add the fire ants, that eat holes in liner. 
 Better get off my rear, and kill some weeds.
Have a blessed day--
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imalilbirdie
Herdmasters
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Posts: 19149


Texas


« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2016, 05:04:15 AM »

I hear ya on that weed killer.  It does appear to kill slower than it use to do years ago.  It does kill, but terribly slow.  I've been using the vinegar solution in and around the animals.  I spray the weeds and under brush with a weed spray (can't remember the name of it--had it a few years now--it's not a generic--but they assured us that it would kill Azalea's--and it has so far), that's not any where near any of the animals.  What I noticed was that the vinegar solution, is killing just as fast, and just as long as the weed killer is, and costs me a fraction of what that weed killer costs.

I've been adding some Veggie oil, Vinegar, and dawn dish soap (this last round they were out of Dawn original so I bought the generic of Dawn and it worked just as good)...it's working really good.  I do have to keep the sprayer shook up during use to keep the vinegar and oil mixed up good...but I tell by days end, the grass and weeds are already wilted.

I hate those dog gone fire ants.  Arkansas doesn't have those nasty thing.  Again I've been using every thing on them to kill them.  That fire ant killer stuff, it doesn't work...they might leave that hill and build another 5 foot from the old hill, but I don't see it doing much good on killing fire ants.  I've been using Mineral spirits on them (cheaper than gasoline--which is what every one I know is using)...it's the mineral spirits that has no odor to it.  I will not use any thing on the ant hills in the dogs yard or the goats pasture except maybe some vinegar.  I did find out that any thing "oil" based will kill them, so they must be skin breathers.   Huh?
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~ Birdie ~
cbdale
Caprine Guru
****
Posts: 286


« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2016, 08:10:51 AM »

Hey Pam, have you tried using Epsom Salt in place of the veggie oil, with vinegar, and Dawn soap?  I have not had good results with my fire ants.  I think they are from hell itself-- they only move, and I am using the Orthene products (stinks--white powder), one farmer told me he poured gas into the mound, and lights, and BOOM!  I said I was afraid of the BOOM!  I just purchased a couple of bottles of gen. Round UP at a feed store, and hope this company will work better. I find a difference if various company's of said product.   I remember when I used this product in the morning, there would be a noticeable change by end of day. Now, I wait a few days.  I am adding some washing machine liquid to my solution, and hoping for better results. A surfactant helps.  My pasture looks likes someone with chicken pox.
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imalilbirdie
Herdmasters
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Posts: 19149


Texas


« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2016, 08:23:10 AM »

If you're killing weeds in the pastures, try 2-4D...or even graze-on.  Both those work great for killing weeds.  Graze-On means the animals can remain in the pastures and graze the pastures... 2-4D you can not allow livestock on the land until the weeds are gone and I think 14 days after the weeds die off.

Any thing with an oil base will kill fire ants.  I'm using the fumeless Mineral spirits, but it also kills the grass around it, but given that, the ants also kill the grass where their mounds are, so I figure it's just as well, and I kill the ants in the mean time.  We've used gasoline, but haven't set it on fire.  What we do is break open the ants mound...yes it ticks the ants off and they go nuts scattering about the mound, but you have to get that stuff deep inside the mound to kill them all, including the queen, or they will move out and begin another a little ways off from it. 

I use oil bases in my vinegar solution because it's the oils that keeps it killed off for a longer period of time.  Plain vinegar will kill but not for long. 
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~ Birdie ~
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